By Wendy Bullen Stephenson
Author of Vancouver Memories: My Year Abroad
Traditionally
thought of as being more British than England, the city of Victoria has also
been known for having the most pleasant weather in Canada. On my recent trip
there in mid July, decked out with a map, camera, and a big sun hat, I asked a
roving ambassador in downtown Victoria to name the notable features of the
city. He responded that the city is surrounded by ocean, is particularly
walkable, is known for its gardens, and is famous for chocolate and,
unexpectedly to me, for beer. Seeing my surprise at this last attribute, he
added, “Well, this is a navy town, you know.”
In fact
Esquimalt, just west of downtown, is the West Coast port of Canada’s navy. I,
however, didn’t notice any visible presence of navy personnel in this serene
town during my two days there. Greater Victoria, made up of 13 municipalities,
has a population of about 350,000 people. It is the capital of British
Columbia, Canada’s western province.
Victoria
seems to enjoy its isolation from the rest of Canada that results from being on
an island (Vancouver Island) thus requiring an almost two-hour ferry trip to
travel there from Vancouver and the B.C. mainland. Ferries carrying up to 470
cars and 1,600 passengers navigate through some narrow passages between lush
green, sparsely inhabited islands, so the voyage to and from Victoria is part
of the adventure of visiting that city. On the hot day of my return voyage, I
sat during the entire cruise outside in the breeze on the top deck (seventh
level) listening to the calls of the sea gulls overhead as they followed the
ship.
Victoria has
been known as a town of seniors while at the same supporting a significant
population of young adults attending the University of Victoria and Camosun
College. Seeming to be such a safe town, it is also a choice place to bring up
children. All of the many dozens of homestay students that I have hosted over
the years have thoroughly enjoyed visiting Victoria, confirming my view that is
a rewarding place to visit due to its historic buildings, engaging exhibitions,
fresh ocean air, lavish flowers and gardens, and relaxed pace.
Some of the
highlights for international students include going whale watching,
experiencing the underwater marine world, visiting North America’s second
oldest Chinatown, spending a couple of hours at the Art Gallery of Greater
Victoria, riding on a double-decker bus, walking through the elaborate
Craigdarroch Castle, indulging in tea at the Empress Hotel, visiting the late
19th century home of Emily Carr (one of BC’s most famous artists), touring the
world-class provincial museum and world-famous Butchart Gardens, seeing the wax
museum, shopping for souvenirs in the many unique shops, touring the
legislature building, and eating in some of the varied restaurants or just
munching fudge and chocolates or licking an ice cream cone while walking around
the human-scale city centre.
Oh, and did I
forget to mention climbing around on rocky beaches including Foul Bay, Mile
Zero, and Oak Bay? That’s fun too!
Most of the
downtown buildings are under five stories high and suggest the historic roots
of the old fort town. The Victoria area was home to several long-time communities of
Coast Salish peoples when Spanish and British explorers visited the northwest
coast of North America beginning with the voyage of Captain Cook in 1776.
Spanish sailors visited Esquimalt harbor just west of Victoria in 1790 and
1792. In 1843, the Hudson's Bay Company established a fort there as its western
base under the direction of Sir James Douglas. He became governor when the
crown Colony of Vancouver Island was established in 1849. With the discovery of
gold in British Columbia in 1858, Victoria mushroomed as the port became a
supply outlet for miners on their way to Mainland gold fields. Victoria was
incorporated as a city in 1862.
Today’s
city’s planners recognize the importance of keeping the city’s heritage
personae. In August 2012 Victoria will celebrate its 150th birthday.
In wanting to
revisit, after many years, the legislature building (located overlooking the
Inner Harbour), I was amazed that without a reservation one can join a free,
guided tour or, on one’s own, explore the unique stone building with its
marvelous stained glass windows and colourful historical frescoes.
I was just
disappointed that the legislature wasn’t in session while I was there as I
missed seeing an animated debate by our MLAs (Members of the Legislative Assembly),
who comprise our provincial government. The building itself is the focal point
of the city at night, outlined, as it is, by hundreds of magical white lights
reflected in the glittering water of Victoria’s Inner Harbour.
Victoria and My Past
The first
time I visited Victoria was as a grade 12 student on a trip organized by the
Vancouver Sun Newspaper specifically for editors of high school yearbooks. At
that time we were shown the major attractions of the city (Butchart Gardens,
Craigdarroch Castle, etc.) and we participated in workshops related to
producing school publications—an inspiring event for me.
Later, while serving as a
corporate curator for BC Central Credit Union, I guided an art-buying committee
to various galleries, artists’ studios, and the fine art department of the
University. For the same organization on another occasion, I was in charge of a
touring art exhibition, which I had organized, that was on display at a
convention in the Empress Hotel.
As a parent I
have vivid memories of trips to the city while my daughter attended the
University of Victoria—leaving home for the first time. Oh, the struggles to
transport her and her personal possessions back and forth on the ferry in
vehicles that always seemed too small for the purpose! Even the
filled-to-the-roof, rented moving van on the trip home after her grad day
hardly left any space to sit.
More recently
I spent a gratifying day in Victoria’s Provincial Archives as a UBC doctoral
student. In the archives I examined student artwork, old texts, and photographs
that related BC’s art education in the 1920s to 1950s.
I would love
to return to tour the current dinosaur exhibit at the provincial museum—a truly
inspirational institution—with my nephew and grandson, who are
dinosaur-enthusiasts.
The purpose
of this summer’s trip was to take photographs for this blog and for my article
in the Japanese e-magazine Cradle My Spirit at
Needing to acquire
insight about and photos of the city for an imaged children’s book I am writing
on Canadian cities was another reason for this visit.
Yes, Victoria
seems such a romantic town, as revealed in the chapter I set in Victoria in my
novel Vancouver Memories: My Year Abroad.
Have a look at the relevant diary entries (July 5 to 8), as there are numerous
other photographs showing the attractions of Victoria that my fictional
homestay characters enjoy while visiting the city, as do my real homestay
students. The novel, free for viewing, is at www.vancouvermemories.ca
I plan to
spend more time in Victoria. One overnight visit is certainly not enough!
Article and
photos
by Wendy
Bullen Stephenson,
July 2012
